Jason Goodenough’s contemporary Southern bistro is tucked in the crook of the Riverbend neighborhood far from the hustle of downtown. It has become a local favorite with a menu of precise, inspired dishes that issue from its small open kitchen. A signature appetizer is the Oysters Goodenough, flash-fried bivalves served on the half shell with smoky Benton’s bacon and béarnaise sauce. A dish of roasted duck breast is accompanied by garlic-and-sage bread pudding, then drizzled with a pecan-and-caramel gastrique. The dining room is a study in understated elegance, and service is attentive without being obtrusive. This restaurant is off the typical tourist map, which is just how the locals like it.

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by Jay Forman

Hideaway Report