Louisiana oysters are at their best in the colder months, so they usually get our full attention beginning in autumn.

But I can’t wait that long. This summer has been a rough one, and I’m ready for a taste of one of the real blessings of living in Louisiana: the prodigious oyster harvest.

Oysters are available year round, and even the raw dozens I’ve been dispatching lately have been tasting fuller and fatter, a harbinger of the peak season to come.

When they’re cooked, of course, Louisiana oysters can be the main attraction any time, and our restaurants and chefs have shown ever more inventive and delicious ways to showcase them fried, broiled or even smoked.

Oysters Goodenough

The moniker might seem to undersell this dish, but oysters Goodenough are proudly named for their creator, chef Jason Goodenough. The oysters are fried and placed back in their shells, which serve as individual pots of bacon and creamed leeks under velvety, lemony bearnaise. They’re decadently rich. At brunch, the dish returns as the oyster Goodenough French omelet (sans shells, of course).

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by Ian McNulty

The New Orleans Advocate