Speaking of chef-driven restaurants: I wish there were more like Jason Goodenough’s Carrollton Market. I left the restaurant off the Critic’s Picks after being served cold fried oysters there last summer. Two more recent meals, one in December and another earlier this month, were something else. They reminded me why I liked the place so much back when I reviewed it in 2014, when it was still new.

Chef-owner Jason Goodenough shows he could be destined for greater things while appearing secure and happy where he is in the Riverbend.

The current menu is filled with seasonal dishes sensibly conceived and flawlessly executed: a smooth tomato-watermelon gazpacho topped with blue crab, an Asian-accented local seafood stew, housemade cream cheese cavatelli with salty speck and al dente asparagus. Goodenough’s cooking is, like his dining room, stylish without being trendy. I’d order the steak frites again just for the pleasure of dragging fries through the perfect, silky béarnaise. What’s more, Carrollton Market’s service is unobtrusively on point. And I want another one of its pisco sours now.

 

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by Brett Anderson

The TImes-Picayune