Carrollton Market has Southern roots, but the accent is subtle. Named for the public market that once anchored this neighborhood, it replaces ONE Restaurant and Lounge, which closed last December after nearly a decade in business.
The dining room at ONE always felt scrappy, while Carrollton Market has a cozy elegance. At the previous occupant, the open kitchen grabbed everyone’s attention. Although Carrollton Market’s chef and owner Jason Goodenough still works without walls around him, a few subtle design changes shifted the focus to the inviting bar and the soothing gray-toned dining room.

Carrollton Market’s menu, at its core, delivers contemporary, upscale comfort food, including pork belly, steak frites and gnocchi, bolstered by a farmers market’s bounty.

Gulf seafood gets its proper due. The risotto, for example, is filled with enough shrimp, oysters and crab to make it as sweet as creamed corn. But Goodenough, who went to college in Mississippi before cooking in Philadelphia, adds a regional touch that’s more Southern than South Louisianan.

Those gnocchi are playfully named “chicken ‘n’ dumplings,” the “tails tots,” disks of deep fried pork tail meat, are crowned with rounds of pickled peppers and the homemade pappardelle pasta comes with a lamb ragout as smoky as good barbecue.

On the menu: baby carrot and beet salad with honey-herb ricotta; blue crab salad with local tomatoes; andouille stuffed chicken breast; Two Run Farm Farm lamb pappardelle; and Louisiana shellfish risotto.


by Todd A. Price

The Times Picayune -