Carrollton Market quickly made a name for itself when it opened back in 2014 and with good reason – chef Jason Goodenough uses southern cuisine as a platform to swiftly branch out into polished iterations of more contemporary fare. But one thing he didn’t offer was lunch service, which made the announcement of his weekend brunch welcome news.
“We tried out an Easter brunch last year just to test the waters, and it was such a success that we did three turns that day,” Goodenough recalls. “So we made it a regular thing, and along the way we added Saturday service. Now we offer brunch all weekend long.”
Goodenough’s menu offers a tasteful mix of options. His “Biscuits and Debris” melds cornmeal biscuits, braised oxtail debris, spicy hollandaise and poached eggs into one sinful concoction, and also one in which you see a well-balanced interplay of southern, local and contemporary influences. An omelet dish makes use of his popular dinner appetizer Oysters Goodenough by incorporating them into a decadent omelet stuffed with creamed leeks, Benton’s bacon and sauce béarnaise. And if this isn’t enough for you, consider the Brunch Poutine, a more sophisticated take on the popular late-night Quebecois drunk food or hangover cure. Goodenough’s take features bacon and eggs atop the foundational fries, gravy and cheese curds.
On the lighter side, there is a Creole Cream Cheese Stuffed French Toast with local blueberry jam and a homemade cinnamon roll with Cream Cheese icing. Look for mid-summer produce to appear in his vegetarian omelet, and also keep an eye open for dishes that make use of California Olive Ranch olive oil, a domestically produced product that’s foundational to a lot of his lighter dinner preparations, including his summery appetizer of crabmeat and Creole tomatoes.
“I was a guest at their ranch last year and got to see how it was made from harvest to bottle,” Goodenough says. “Compared to some of the Italian oils, the difference was the depth of flavor and just how peppery it was. It had lot of natural character. We use it extensively.” The higher-end Arbequina version, for example, is used with to finish a lot of his finfish dishes, as well as with his salads and dressings.
Carrollton Market also offers a full bar and signature cocktail menu, which adds to the allure. The light-filled main dining room is elegant without being fancy, and fans of the craft will appreciate the view into the open kitchen.
New Orleans Magazine